September 13, 2001

To start with, you have to draw the "reference plane" around the inside edges of the H-jig. This is done via a plumb bob. What you end up with is a line that represents straight and level, regardless of how straight the jig wood is. Granted, the jig wood is pretty freakin' straight, but this is added assurance that the tail will come out perfectly straight, with no twist (thus the plumb lines running vertically up the side members to represent the vertical plane).

The HS gets attached to the cross member of the jig via metal brackets that get bolted to the HS hinge brackets. I used 2x2" aluminum angle (from Home Depot...about $11 for a few feet...jeez!) and cut five 2.5" strips. Rounded off all the jagged edges and corners with the ScotchBrite wheel in the bench grinder.

I used the drill press with a clamped-down fence (the angle stock itself) to drill the 3/16 holes precisely at 1.5" up from the bottom surface. That ensures that the hinge pass-through bolts are at exactly the same height all the way across the stab. Duh.

I also used the micro-stop countersink tool to make countersunk holes for the wood screws. I know, countersinking is probably overkill, but I wanted to make sure that as I tightened down the tapered wood screw heads, it didn't shift the brackets off the center line.

Speaking of the center line, here's the first bracket clamped down on the jig on center, with pilot holes drilled. My cordless screwdriver battery died at a most inopportune time, so I'm done for the night as it charges.

I'll be back at it tomorrow to screw these brackets in, set up the 1/4" threaded rod to hold the end ribs vertical, add the extra center support and clamps, etc.

Next   |   Previous   |   Home

Dan Checkoway ()